Tuesday 23 September 2014

September 23rd 2014: France: Manoir d'Eyrignac and Perigueux

Monty the Motorhome is parked in a very tidy Aire at Perigueux. We travelled from Sarlat today, via some splendid gardens, and have spent the afternoon in the town of Perigueux.

Last night was a noisy one - traffic all through the night; so apart from being free to use we would not recommend the Aire at Sarlat. We did a bit of planning yesterday evening and decided to visit the gardens of Manoir d’Eyrignac. We knew of this place through the guidebooks, but quite late in the evening we looked at the garden’s website and saw they allow overnighting for motorhomes in their car park. We had got settled by then so didn’t bother leaving Sarlat.

Arriving at the gardens it was obvious we had made a mistake. They are right out in the countryside and the overnight spot is a grassed area designated for picnics that looks out across the Perigord Noir. It was just about the opposite of what our night had been - quiet, peaceful, clean country air, no streetlights and just one other van. Oh well, live and learn.

The gardens are a mix of the more formal French and wilder looking Italian styles, with rolling lawns and a mass of trees and shrubs such as box, hornbeam and cypress. Thee are also many surprises such as little nooks and unexpected views.

The manor house, with sanded courtyard. A clipped hedge avenue stretches out in the background

This is the sort of view we missed out on by not staying overnight

The 'white garden' which we had all to ourselves. We just sat and contemplated.

Clipped yew alternates with clipped hornbeam. This garden takes a lot of upkeep

Our morning was spent there before moving on to Perigueux which is the capital of the departement of the Dordogne. Once again we experienced a town with a medieval and Renaissance core of stone flagged squares and narrow alleys. This ancient centre is one of the largest urban conservation areas in France, but by now we had become a little immune to these architecture wonders, having seen quite a bit over the last few days.  Our main reason for coming to the town was to visit the twice weekly market that is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. We intend to stay overnight and get to the market fairly early tomorrow - hopefully to stock up on provisions to take home.


Back at the Aire for tea we found it just about full - 41 places - probably due to tomorrow’s market. Pasta and bits for tea, but we have some walnut beer and a bottle of Monbazillac  - a sweet wine wine from the region, so life’s not too bad.

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