August 24th 2015: Norway: Borgund

Monty the Motorhome is on a wild-camp site on the shores of Lærdalsfjorden, an offshoot of the mighty Sognefjorden.

We moved on this morning, but not without mishap. We normally fill up with fresh water before leaving a camping site, so there is plenty of fresh water available while wild-camping. Monty has a 16 gallon on-board tank, with an indicator lights that come on when one third full, two thirds and completely topped up. We normally go for travelling with two thirds, thus giving plenty of options for two or three days wild-camping without being stingy with the water.

So this morning we were merrily filling up, waiting for the two thirds light to come on, when all of a sudden water gushed out of the filling tube, indicating that the tank was full to capacity. However just one red indicator light was on, which we would normally associate with a water level below one third capacity. 

This will be a real nuisance, if the water level indicator system has packed up. We will have no way of gauging how much water there is in the tank and may have to guess when filling up; or just bung as much in as it will hold, then let some out.

Anyway it is only a minor problem - we have water and the pump works - that’s all that matters.

Our first port of call was the nearby Supphellebreen glacier. We drove up a small, unsurfaced road, to the head of a valley. There towering over the lip was Flatbreen - true blue and impressive. However at the base was a large mass of what looked like dirty white snow. This, according to the notice boards, was Supphellebreen. It is the fragments of Flatbeen that fall and collect. It was underwhelming and a disappointment. However it is of note as it is the lowest lying glacier (in height above sea level) on mainland Europe.

Back on the road we needed to stock up on food supplies after the weekend. Just south of Sogndal a handy Co-Op supermarket satisfied our requirements. Then on through Lærdal to Borgund stave church. This reputably is the most photographed stave church in Norway, as it is the one with the least alterations, but still in marvellous condition considering the timber it is constructed from was felled during the winter of 1180.

We drove back to Lærdal to find our overnighting spot. Initially we were going to stay at a site found on the internet site ‘Camper Contact’, which lists various wild-camping spots around Europe. This was also on the shores of Lærdalsfjorden. However on reaching it we decided it was just too small and isolated, so went back to one we had passed minutes earlier that was altogether larger.

Our plans for tomorrow are a bit hazy. We had intended to head for Flåm, then on towards Bergen. However a major tunnel is closed, barring that onward route. So tonight will have to be spent mulling over possible options.